金秀下古陈村：神秘坳瑶部落

男子留长发、梳髻，女子爱戴竹壳帽，逢年过节喜欢打黄泥鼓……这样一个神秘的部落就位于广西的大瑶山中。今天，我们要走进来宾市金秀瑶族县六巷乡下古陈村，第二批列入中国传统村落名录的一个村落。

下古陈村是以坳瑶为主的小村，我国著名的社会学家费孝通教授早年曾专门考察过古陈坳瑶，并称之为“世界瑶族文化研究中心”，这里是我国乃至世界瑶族研究的重要基地。“Xiaguchen village is a small village dominated by Ao Yao nationality. Professor Fei Xiaotong, a famous sociologist in China, visited and investigated this area in his early years. He called it the research center of the culture of Yao nationality in the world. This is an important base for the study of Yao nationality in China and even in the world.”。

“坳瑶”名称的由来，与他们的头部装束有关。坳瑶男子的头髻，不偏不倚地结在头顶正中，故称为“坳瑶”。坳字是瑶语的译音，读yin。“The origin of the name Ao Yao is related to people's hair style. Men make their hair in a bun in the middle of the top of the head, so it is called Ao Yao. The word Ao is the transliteration of Yao language and it reads Yin in Yao language.”。坳瑶妇女则喜欢戴用嫩竹壳折制而成的竹壳帽，帽上插上头针数枚，颈上带有银环数个，衣过祷，无领，衣沿刺绣有各种花、虫、鸟、兽花纹，极为美丽。

如今，下古陈村坳瑶寨子里还流传着各种舞蹈仪式，黄泥鼓舞是坳瑶在过春节时最喜欢的娱乐活动之一。“Nowadays, there are various dance ceremonies in the village. Huangni drum dance is one of the most popular recreational activities of the Ao Yao nationality during the Spring Festival.”。黄泥鼓用牛皮和长木做成的长鼓，鼓两端的牛皮鼓面上糊上一团黄泥，掌击鼓时鼓声会更响，传得更远。“Huangni drum is a long drum made of cowhide and long logs. Paste a mass of yellow mud on the drum surface at both end of Huangni drum. When people use their hands to beat drums, the drums will be louder and the beats will go further.”。舞蹈中，男人始终是主角。2012年，黄泥鼓舞被文化部列入国家级非物质文化遗产名录。“In 2012, Huangni drum dance was listed in the national intangible cultural heritage list by the Ministry of Culture.”。

在下古陈村瑶寨还有一个古老绝技：舔火。“There is an old stunt in the village, fire licking.”。熊熊火苗在一堆干柴上燃起，师公手握一把锈蚀的剑，口中念着古老的咒语，在火堆里扯出一根已烧得通红的炭头，伸出舌头将炭舔灭。“A fire is burning on a pile of dry firewood. The master holds a rusty sword in his hand and mutters ancient incantations in his mouth. He pulls out a burning charcoal from the fire and then puts out his tongue to lick the charcoal.”。面对火热的炭火，师公的舌头却安然无恙。只有掌握了舔火秘诀的人才能被尊称为师公，成为他们心中最神奇的族人。“Facing the burning charcoal, the master's tongue is in safety. Only those who have known the secrets of licking fire well can be honored as a master and become the most magical man in their minds.”。

本报记者 叶祯/文 黄倩华/翻译

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